Svaneti Trekking in Georgia

Welcome to Georgia!

The team assembles on day one in Kutaisi —the 2nd largest city in Georgia.

Kutaisi, the second-largest city in Georgia, is located much closer to the mountains than the bustling capital of Tbilisi. The city is renowned for its stunning Bagrati Cathedral, an architectural gem dating back to the 11th century, and the enchanting Gelati Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Kutaisi’s charming old town by the river with vibrant streets makes it worthwhile a day stop before heading out into Svaneti’s mountains for trekking.

Following our first team meeting and introductions at a hotel before heading into the mountains on the same day. After breakfast, we hit the road for a private 4-hour scenic transfer to Etseri, a small hamlet in the western part of Svaneti where our journey begins.

Along the way, we’ll stop at the impressive Enguri Dam— the world’s 7th largest — whose source we’ll soon be camping next to! The dam is a masterpiece of Soviet engineering and covers up to 40% of Georgia’s electricity demands.

The road winds along the roaring Enguri river gorge with sheer cliffs above and below, and primeval coniferous woods covering the banks.

Once in Etseri, we check into our family-run guesthouse and enjoy hearty dinner.

Our first day’s trail connects two stunning valleys of Upper Svaneti, offering sweeping views of Mount Ushba’s mighty glaciers, the Enguri River Valley, and the Svaneti Ridge. It is surprisingly off the radar for most tourists. It starts with a 1,000m climb to the panoramic Baki Pass (2,430m) with ruins of an 11th century church followed with a 800m descent to Mazeri through a really nice fir tree forest.

From the pass, an enormous twin tower of Mount Ushba comes into view soaring two vertical kilometers above the glacier The peak is as beautiful as it is deadly — it is known to climbers as ‘the Matterhorn of the Caucasus’ or ‘the Disaster Mountain’ and as ‘Coven of Witches’ to locals.

After crossing Dolra village over a bridge, we arrive into wide Mazeri valley at the foothills of towering Mt Ushba, where the warm hospitality of the village awaits. A hearty dinner caps off this rewarding day of exploration.

Today our journey kicks off as we traverse through the forest, tracing the upstream path of the resonant Dolra river. After a couple of hours on the trail, we cross the river via a wooden bridge, greeted warmly by the border guards stationed in their wooden huts, occasionally offering a smile and, if we’re lucky, a delectable traditional cheese flatbread—khachapuri!

Our route leads us straight to the base of Georgia’s loftiest waterfall—the awe-inspiring Shdugra.

Standing at the precipice, we witness masses of water cascading over a sheer 100-meter descent. While many trekkers opt to turn back at this point, we choose the more challenging path, ascending for a few additional hours until we conquer the summit of the waterfall, standing alongside the thunderous stream as it plunges into the abyss below.

Pressing onward, we reach the impromptu memorial dedicated to climbers who lost their lives attempting Mt. Ushba. Positioned a few hundred meters beyond, a beautiful viewpoint unfolds, revealing the reverse side of the mountain, complete with the Ushba glacier, the formidable icefall, and the ridgeline of the normal climbing route.

We return via the same route where we aim to sample some local trout baked in bread. 

Total hiking distance: 12 km 
Total vertical ascent: 1000m

We bid farewell to the guesthouse owner and his family. A 4×4 minivan takes us to Mestia, the heart of Svaneti, in about 40 minutes. Going past the village, we drive an exhilarating 1,300 vertical meters along a rugged dirt track to reach the famous Koruldi Lakes, perched on a grassy plateau at 2,750m.

Here, a breathtaking 360° panorama unfolds, showcasing the Svaneti range. Our trek then continues with a climb of 600 vertical meters, leading us in 2–2.5 hours to the narrow Koruldi ridge. This lofty perch offers unmatched views of Mount Ushba’s towering peak and the Chalaadi Glacier below — a spectacle rivaling the Alps’ most iconic vistas.

From the ridge, we scramble further, soaking in sweeping panoramas of the Svaneti and Great Caucasus ranges at an altitude of 3,300m. Turning south, we descend to Guli Pass, a popular crossing for hikers traveling between Mazeri and Mestia. Continuing onward, we reach Guli Peak (2,924m), offering striking views of the Enguri Valley down below.

The path leads into dense forests and past the charming Svan hamlets of Latali, with their iconic stone towers and glimpses of traditional life. Finally, the hike concludes in Lenjeri, a picturesque village near Mestia. We celebrate the day at a restaurant run by a Svan family that owned the place for generations, offering a fine interpretation of otherwise rustic Svan cuisine, including millet flatbread and kubdari — traditional juicy meat pie.

Distance: 15km, duration: 7 hours
Elevation gain: 700m

After a challenging hike yesterday, we unwind in Mestia’s bustling cafes, soaking in the charm of this mountain town. We’ll visit the fascinating Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography, which houses unique artifacts, ancient manuscripts, and medieval icons that reflect the rich culture of the region.

We also explore the famous Svan towers, iconic symbols of the region, offering a glimpse into the defensive architecture of medieval Svaneti. A visit to the Margiani Tower is particularly immersive, showcasing life in the ancient fortified dwellings. Strolling through the town, we’ll find cozy bakeries offering fresh khachapuri and local delicacies.

Via a chairlift and subsequent gondola ski lift, we effortlessly traverse from Mestia’s town center to the elevated Zuruldi ridge at 2,300m. Ascending roughly 900m above the valley floor, an awe-inspiring vista unfolds, showcasing the iconic two-horned Mount Ushba. At the valley’s terminus, the imposing white pyramid of Mt Tetnuldi commands attention, surpassing the height of Mont Blanc by a 50 meters. On the distant horizon, the towering summits of the Great Caucasus come into view, reaching an elevation of 5,000m, create a majestic backdrop.

Below us, the countless Svan towers of Mestia shrink to minuscule proportions.

Further along the valley, Mestia’s airstrip comes into view. If we are lucky, we might catch a glimpse of a turboprop plane from Tbilisi gracefully navigating through the deep valley.

Following the scenic ridge trail for a few hours, we descend into the enchanting Tsvirmi village, home to a 10th-century church.

We meet up with our van again and drive for under an hour, carries us along the resounding Enguri river to Iprari village, perched on an airy ledge above the rushing waters. Along the way, a brief stop introduces us to an 11th-century Svan church and a medieval dining hall in Khe village. Our accommodation for the night awaits in a guesthouse, where a hearty dinner prepares us for tomorrow’s upcoming trekking adventure.

Total hiking distance: 10km 
Total vertical ascent: 300m, 770m down

With our tents and sleeping bags are entrusted to the porters or pack horses, we set out to reach tonight’s campsite via a dirt track at the valley bottom. 

As we ascend beyond the woods and enter the alpine zone, the grassy ridge narrows, unveiling a striking ice face before us.

This marks the renowned ‘Bezengi wall’—the loftiest segment of the Caucasus mountains, dividing Georgia and Russia, adorned with several 5,000m summits. Our journey ascends the Chkhunderi ridge, tracing a faint trail through the woods once frequented by local shepherds, now seemingly forgotten.

Trekking along the airy ridge, we draw as close as possible to the massive wall before descending a steep grassy slope to a cozy wild campsite by a stream, separated from the glacier bedrock. Our porters, already at camp, await us with the tents, paving the way for a tasty dinner prepared on portable stoves.

Total hiking distance: 12km 
Total vertical ascent: 1450m up, 1080m down

Today, we have an early  morning breakfast and pack up the camp. Our porters prepare to transport our tents to the subsequent campsite.

Today is going to be an epic hike!

Navigating the Khalde glacier demands cautious steps, resembling more a scattered heap with intermittent patches of ice and pools of meltwater. Although we do not need crampons , the absence of a defined trail requires careful navigation (from your expert guides of course!), with only a handful of viable crossing points on the glacier.

Returning to the grassy trail, our trek continues towards Karetti pass, a saddle nestled in the neighboring ridge extending from the Bezengi wall. Upon reaching the saddle, we follow the ridge until we arrive at Lagem pass.

Descending from there involves a steep but well-trodden trail leading to Engiri valley, where we establish camp next to a summer café.

Our porters await us, with the tents all set up with the prospect of a well-deserved beer!

Connecting Karetti and Lagem pass, this stretch emerges as one of the most untamed yet astonishing segments of our Georgia trekking adventure in Svaneti.

Total hiking distance: 15km 
Total vertical ascent: 1100m up & 1200m down

Following the exertion of the past two days, today’s trek carries a more relaxed pace and a shorter overall distance to cover.

Our route, maintaining a steady elevation gain, brings us closer to the majestic Mt Shkhara at 5,193m—the pinnacle of Georgia’s mountainscape. Traversing a grassy moraine ridge, we stand beneath a mountain face of Himalayan proportions, adorned with glaciers of staggering magnitude—a wonderful highlight of our trek through Georgia.

Returning to our camp, we hike alongside our porters, tracing the valley’s curve to the right, heading toward the source of the Enguri River.

Our tents find a picturesque camp site by Nuamquam lake, arguably the most enchanting in Svaneti.

Following dinner, we bask in the captivating display of sunset hues playing upon the hanging glaciers, witnessing the gradual emergence of stars in the night sky.

Total hiking distance: 6km 
Total vertical ascent: 700m

Post breakfast, our tents are disassembled, with the porters transporting them down to the village. Our ascent takes us along Vakhushti ridge, attaining an elevation peak of 3,153m. Subsequently, we trek downhill, distancing ourselves from the imposing Shkhara wall, reveling in breathtaking vistas on either side of the expansive ridge.

Come afternoon, our descent leads us to the beautiful village of Ushguli, nestled within a confined valley defined by steep slopes.

Total hiking distance: 10km 
Total vertical ascent: 700m up & 950m down

The journey begins in Chazhashi, a village in the Ushguli community, where we leave the Enguri River behind and ascend into the mountains. Passing by Murkmeli and its iconic stone towers, the trail climbs steadily alongside a mountain creek. Higher up, the ruins of Tamar’s summer castle and sweeping views of the Greater Caucasus begin to unfold. Peaks like Shkhara, Tetnuldi, Ushba, and even Elbrus emerge as the trail rises to a plateau at 2,600m, a perfect spot to take in the scenery.

As we approach Gorvashi Pass (2,972m), the ridge walk offers some of the most breathtaking views in the region. Small alpine lakes dot the trail, and the sightlines stretch to the Lechkhumi ridge in the south. Continuing along the undulating ridge, we pass through fields of wildflowers and reach a tranquil lake near Latpari Pass, an ideal place to set up camp.

At Latpari Pass, we’re rewarded with a panoramic view of the Caucasus ridge glowing in the sunset. With a lake nearby and a chapel adding a touch of serenity, it’s the perfect spot to unwind after the day’s adventure. Our tents and supplies, delivered by horse, ensure a comfortable night under the stars.

Distance: 12km, duration: 7 hours
Elevation gain: 1,400m.

After breakfast we descend to the main road in under 4hrs following a dirt track with seemingly infinite number of switchbacks. A minivan gives us a short ride back to Ushguli.

Our family-operated guesthouseis built in an authentic 12th-century structure nestled in the heart of Chazhashi—the sole facet of Ushguli designated as a UNESCO cultural heritage site. This elevated settlement, perched at 2,200m above sea level, holds the distinction of being one of Europe’s highest permanent abodes.

Amidst a well-earned rest day in Ushguli, we explore the 9th-century Lamaria church, adorned with impeccably preserved frescoes. A visit to the local museum reveals ancient crosses, icons, and wine goblets, while the ascent of a Svan tower lets us gain some views and cool perspectives of the village.

As night descends, we commemorate the conclusion of our week-long trek through Svaneti with the savory indulgence of piping hot traditional meat pies and maybe a glass of local wine or three. 

We leave hospitable Svaneti driving a scenic road across Zagar Pass and reaching Tbilisi in little more than 10-11 hours, with stops at most breathtaking places.

The goal tonight is to have our final team dinner as a group in the capital city. 

Accommodation will be in a hip part of Tbilisi with easy access to everything you need close by. 

The final day where we say goodbye to one another and the amazing country that has hosted us.

Transfers from the hotel to Tbilisi International Airport will be arranged if you are flying out on this day.