Today is the day! Arrive at Quito International Airport and transfer to our comfy hotel in Quito. The team has our first group meeting and briefing as we go over the plan for the next few weeks together.

Enjoy our first team welcome dinner as you connect with Epic friends old and new over a pint and fabulous local fare.

Accommodation: Hotel

Following breakfast, our guides will conduct a thorough equipment check and brief the group on the expedition’s details. Our journey commences with a hike to Ilaló Volcano, standing at 2,572 meters (8,438 feet) amidst the serene landscape between the San Pedro River to the west and Chiche River to the east, just eight kilometers east of Quito.

Ilaló emerges from a lush Andrean valley. The river divides this valley into two distinct parts: Valle de Los Chillos to the south and Valle de Tumbaco to the north. Southward lies Milivaro, a dormant lava dome. The entire volcanic complex is cloaked in cangahua, a fertile ash borne by winds from neighboring, younger volcanoes.

The hike to Ilaló, spans three to four hours, and offers killer panoramic vistas of neighboring peaks, including Pasochoa, Pichincha, Cotopaxi, and Cayambe from the summit.

Accommodation: Hotel

Today we do an acclimatization hike to  Cerro Pasochoa, standing at 4,200 meters (13,780 feet). The Pasochoa Wildlife Refuge, preserved since 1982, offers a glimpse into how Ecuadorean mountain landscapes were pre -Spanish times. As we trek through the forest below Cerro Pasochoa, we’ll encounter various tree species such as pumamaqui, polyapis, podocarpus, and sandalwood. Remember how we said Ecuador is diverse? Keep an eye out for the abundant native birds, with over a hundred species in this area.

Accommodation: Hotel

Our final acclimatization hike takes us to Rucu Pichincha (4,784m/15,696ft), located to the east of Quito in the Pichincha Massif. We’ll begin by taking an epic cable car ride above the city, followed by a hike on trails through rolling hills, with a few rock scrambles along the way. From the summit, we’ll enjoy panoramic views of the Central Valley, offering a unique perspective of Quito from above.

Later in the afternoon, we’ll journey to Hacienda Guachala, one of Ecuador’s oldest haciendas, dating back to 1580. This historic property retains its rustic charm and holds significance as Edward Whymper’s base before his first ascent of Cayambe in 1880.

Accommodation: Hotel

We journey through the quaint village of Cayambe, where we’ll observe the simple rural architecture characteristic of Andean foothill villages. As we ascend, the road gradually becomes more challenging interesting. Depending on road conditions, we may opt to hike the final stretch, allowing our jeeps to proceed with our equipment. Upon reaching the renowned Cayambe Refuge, we’ll be greeted by awe-inspiring views of the Glaciar Hermoso, aptly named the “beautiful glacier.”

In the afternoon, we’ll embark on a brief hike above the camp, possibly reaching the entrance to the upper glacier, which may take up to two hours. If weather permits, we’ll be treated to the spectacular alpenglow at sunset, revealing our route up the south and western flanks of Cayambe.

Accommodation: Hacienda

Today will primarily focus on practicing our alpine climbing skills in preparation for our summit attempt on Cayambe. We’ll spend ample time on the glacier near the hut, utilizing it as an ideal setting to learn and practice essential glacier travel skills, ice ax and crampon techniques, and self-arrest maneuvers.

Following our time on the ice, we’ll return to the refuge for a debrief and to solidify our plan for the upcoming summit day. Card games, a hearty meal, and plenty of hydration are on the evening agenda.

Accommodation: Mountain Hut

We begin our ascent of Cayambe in the early hours of the morning, taking advantage of the firm snow conditions created by cooler nighttime temperatures. The initial part of the route involves navigating varied terrain on rock until we reach the glacier, where we organize our teams for glacier travel.

Snow and ice climbing on Cayambe is generally moderate, with slopes peaking at a manageable 35 degrees. A significant landmark along the way is the Picos Jarrin at 5,300 meters (17,390 feet), offering a suitable spot for a rest. Beyond this point, the route becomes slightly steeper and more exposed to the weather.

As we approach the summit, the final challenge presents itself in the form of a steep face, requiring careful route finding. Negotiating around seracs and crevasses adds to the excitement, culminating in the achievement of this classic Ecuador Volcano route.

Following our descent, we return to spend the night at Hacienda Guachala.

Accommodation: Mountain Hut

Today we shall have a bit of rest with no planned hiking.

We depart from Cayambe and head towards the Cotopaxi region, staying at one of the fine haciendas or lodges situated on the north side of Cotopaxi National Park. We take this opportunity to reflect on our team’s performance during our climb of Cayambe and to strategize for the upcoming ascent of Cotopaxi. While it’s a well-deserved day of rest, you’ll also have the chance to take a leisurely walk  and soak in the views of the area.

*Note in case of closure of Cotopaxi National Park, we will climb Antisana (5,753 meters/18,875 ft) instead.

Accommodation: Hacienda Guesthouse

The morning kicks off with our journey through the “Valley of Volcanoes,” heading east towards Cotopaxi. Along the way, we’ll be greeted by the majestic summits of Ruminahui, Sincholagua, and Quilindana, standing tall in Cotopaxi National Park.

As we ascend to approximately 4,600 meters (15,100 feet), keep an eye out for sightings of wild horses, llamas, and condors.

Our destination is the José Ribas Hut, nestled on Cotopaxi’s flank at 4,794 meters (15,729 feet), accessible after a forty-five-minute climb with our full packs.

Accommodation: Mountain Hut

Summit day #2!

We’ll depart from the hut well before dawn to take advantage of the good snow conditions. Our journey begins on non-glaciated slopes, gradually transitioning to uniform snow and ice ramps with inclines ranging between 30 and 35 degrees. As dawn breaks, we’re greeted by sweeping views of Antisana, towering to the north at 5,704 meters (18,714 feet). Negotiating occasional snow bridges and avoiding large crevasses, we steadily ascend towards the massive summit cone.

Approaching the base of Yanasacha, a 120-meter (400-foot) rock wall, we encounter the formidable bergschrund at the foot of the final glacial slopes leading to the summit. Progressing onto steeper ice faces, reaching up to approximately 55 degrees, we navigate through some of Ecuador’s most classic snow and ice-climbing pitches.

As the gradient becomes gentler, we finally reach the crater rim and continue along easier slopes to reach the summit of Ecuador’s second highest peak. From the top, we’re treated to incredible views of nine major equatorial peaks and the vast Amazon Basin sprawling to the east, with Cotopaxi’s impressive 300-meter (1,000-foot) deep summit crater directly beneath us.

Following our descent, we return to our hacienda in the Central Valley to feast and celebrate yet another Epic day together.

Accommodation: Hacienda Guesthouse

Time to get south again, traversing the renowned “Valley of Volcanoes” via the Pan-American Highway, passing through the towns of Latacunga and Ambato. En route, we pause for lunch before continuing our drive.

By afternoon, we ascend to the eastern slopes of Chimborazo, where we settle into a lodge situated at 3,499 meters (11,480 feet). Nestled amidst grassy plains below Chimborazo, the lodge offers a picturesque setting for us to unwind and admire the panoramic views of the Ecuadorian Altiplano, with Chimborazo and its counterpart, Carihuairazo, standing majestically in the backdrop.

Accommodation: Hacienda Guesthouse

We are on the move again! Leaving the lodge on the eastern side of Chimborazo, we drive across the volcano to its western flank, passing through the town of Riobamba.

The province of Chimborazo is characterized by its hilly terrain and a significant indigenous population. During our journey, we’ll be treated to impressive views of the Chimborazo massif, rolling Andean landscapes, and sightings of wild vicuñas and llamas. By midday, we’ll arrive at the Carrel Hut (4,800 meters/15,700 feet) for lunch.

In the afternoon, we’ll embark on a two-hour hike to the Stübel Camp (4,900 meters/16,100 feet). Climbers will carry their personal gear while porters handle water, tents, and food.

As we prepare for our midnight start, we’ll enjoy an early dinner. Despite our stoke building for the summit push ahead, we’ll prioritize rest and try to go to bed early in anticipation of a big ascent the next morning. Depending on mountain conditions, the team may opt to stay at the Whymper or Carrel huts for a direct summit attempt from there.

Accommodation: Tents

It’s summit day, baby!

Starting from Stübel Camp, we’ll trace our path along the Stübel Glacier until it merges with the Castle Saddle at 5,499 meters (18,044 feet). The journey to the Whymper summit typically spans about eight hours from Stübel Camp. As we ascend, the technical challenges lessen, and we’ll find ourselves navigating compact and moderately angled snow for the remainder of the route.

The summit crater area sprawls expansively, usually covered either in soft snow or nieve penitentes formations. Despite being our longest day, our thorough acclimatization from previous climbs will serve us well. The round trip will take approximately 10 to 12 hours, involving traversing ice ramps, snow bridges, and sections of icefall. It’s a fun and dynamic route on an impressively grand mountain.

Following our descent to the Carrel Hut, we’ll continue by vehicle to the lower altitude and oxygen-rich town of Baños, situated on the edge of the Amazon Basin.

Accommodation: Hacienda Guesthouse

The normal plan is to return to Quito from Baños after breakfast. In the event day 13 is utilized as a rest day due to unfavorable weather conditions, then we will push the summit day until day 14. If we climb on Day 14, we will hike out after reaching the summit and then drive back to Quito, where we will spend the night.

Accommodation: Hotel

Alas our Epic odyssey has come to an end. Today is departure day. If your schedule permits, we advise you to stick around in Quito for a few more days to rest and soak in the events of the last few weeks.

Standard checkout form the hotel is around 12 noon on Day 15. We can organize additional nights’ accommodation for anyone wishing to stay in Quito.